Jean’s Take Out, 1108 Morning Glory Ave., Durham, N.C.
Biscuits are simply king in the South. Whether it’s to sop up your gravy or to cover in honey, they are marvelous utilitarian delights, created to please something deep inside a hungry soul. The ideal biscuit for me is something that crumbles easily under the weight of its own buttery consistency, leaving your fingers shinny with enough crumbs lying about to wonder if you should go ahead and have another one while you’re at it. Nothing compares to making your own, especially if someone who knows teaches you right. If you’re ordering one somewhere, avoid places that lump it with a value meal. The ideal menu should simply read: Biscuit -followed by a string of options; with jelly, with sausage, with ham, with country ham, with fat back, with bologna, with friend bologna, with egg, with cheese, with bacon and so on – leaving you to build up a dream combination upon your little humble biscuit.
Some morning biscuit time music:
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Quietly tucked behind a grocery store in East Durham is a wonderful purveyor of the classic Southern biscuit called Jean’s Take Out , before that it was known as Cosey’s Kitchen. You gotta get there before 10:30 and, true to its name, there’s no place to sit, so everything is wrapped in wax paper and brown bagged to go. You can never go wrong with the bacon, egg and cheese. Jean’s in the back making the orders and Floyd is up front to taking them down. The coffee can taste like stale popcorn, but most anything else hits the spot. Before Biscuitville and Bojangles crowded around cramped expressway, there where hundreds of little low-slung shops like this. Go and feel like royalty, for a little while at least.
Floyd, Jean’s Take Out, Durham, N.C.
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nice music and brilliant photos, as ever.